In this section you will find the knots which must be taught to the participants, those used regularly to set up anchors and perform basic rescue procedures.
The following knots can be used in all basic climbing situations. There are other knots which might be more convenient in particular situations, but the object here is to provide a simple, consistent technical base for an institutional climbing program. A huge knowledge of different knots is useful, but the institutional climbing instructor is better off with a solid knowledge of a few reliable, multi-purpose knots than with a vague familiarity with many different knots.
With some of these knots, neatness is essential. With others, neatness and perfect alignment is not as important. It is simplest to insist upon neatness in all situations, for all knots. All knots should have at least six inch tails to compensate for minor slippage as the knot tightens under weight. A knot should be tightened prior to use.
Any knot will compromise the strength of a rope. A rope pull tested to 5000 lb., will break under a lesser force at a knot. Some knots weaken the rope more than other knots. For this reason, some knots are preferred is some situations, especially high load rescue operations. However, due to the strength of modern ropes, greater safety is often achieved by using a slightly more rope weakening knot if that knot offers significant advantages of simplicity, ease of use or security against loosening through shaking. For this reason, I do not recommend the general institutional use of the bowline and other knots of its ilk: the sheet bend, carrik bend, double bowline on a bight, triple bowline, etc..
THE OVERHAND
This knot is used to tie backups on various knots and as a foundation for certain rescue maneuvers described later.
THE FIGURE EIGHT FOLLOW THROUGH
This knot is recommended for attaching a participant to a belay rope. It can also be used in anchor formation.
The eight is first tied with a significant tail. This tail is fed around the object to which the rope will be secured-- most often the crotch strap and waist belt of the climber's harness. The tail is then fed back through the knot as illustrated. Be sure to keep twists out of the knot.
THE FIGURE EIGHT ON A BIGHT
This knot has many uses. It is frequently employed to form anchors, as a general back-up knot, etc..
The figure eight on a bight is tied by doubling a portion of the rope and then tying the doubled portion into a figure eight as shown.
THE DOUBLE EIGHT BEND
This bend can be used to join lengths of equal diameter rope. It is tied in exactly the same manner as the figure eight on a bight; the eight is tied with the two ends instead of a bight. It offers many advantages over the more traditional double fisherman's: It is much faster to tie; It is simpler, given that almost everyone knows the figure eight on a bight; It is easier to undo after it has been weighted. This is an excellent knot for setting double rope rappels where you will have to pull the ropes because it will often rotate to present its flat side and slip over edges that might hang up a double fisherman's.
THE WATER KNOT
This knot is used primarily to tie the ends of webbing together. Begin with loose overhand in one end and feed the other end through as illustrated. Follow the overhand around the top of the knot, as illustrated.
THE GIRTH HITCH
This hitch has long been held undesirable in the belief that it compromises webbing or cord strength. Pull tests cast doubt on this bit of folklore, but until the verdict is in, it would be best to avoid the girth hitch. It can be used for quick anchors.
THE PRUSIK
This rope grabbing wrap grabs the rope like a mechanical ascender. It can be used to ascend ropes, to hold ropes during rescue procedures, and much more. It is an indispensable tool. It has the advantage over most mechanical rope grabbing devices in that it will slip before it breaks (around 1000 lb. on an 11 mm rope.) For this reason, it is used in hauling systems and as a safety clutch on anchors in situations where the load may exceed 1000 lb.. When it slides under such a load it will glaze the rope, without breaking it. This permits a reduction of the load before system failure occurs. However, a small diameter prusik may fall apart rather than glaze the rope. A very soft 8 or 9mm prusik cord is preferable for such applications. In regular personal use, where an instructor might use the prusik as part of a belay escape or simple hauling system, a smaller diameter prusik of 7 mm will grab more securely and prove more versatile.
Prusik cords should be on hand at all times, pre-tied into loops with a double fisherman's knot that has been weighted and locked into place. The prusik must be neat or it will not grab the rope. Prusik cord must be supple.
THE FISHERMAN'S KNOT
The double fisherman's variation of this knot (really a bend) can be used to tie any equal diameter rope or cord ends together. The exception is 5.5mm Spectra cord which requires a triple fisherman's knot. Spectra has a low melting point and should not be used for prusik cord. Neither should the more brittle kevlar cord be used for prusiks. Either type of cord may be used for slinging chocks.
The single fisherman's is created by using each of two ends to tie an overhand knot around the other end. Note that the overhand knots are started in opposite directions.
The double fisherman's is tied like the single fisherman's, with the addition of an extra wrap as illustrated. Note that the knots are still wrapped in opposite directions. This knot must be neat and it must have healthy tails.
The finished double fisherman's has appearance. Yet, it must be inspected. A convincing but dangerous look alike can be tied with four wraps on a single end.
THE DOUBLE FIGURE EIGHT ON A BIGHT
This knot is useful in some rescue situations. It can also be used to quickly equalize two anchor points. The loops remain adjustable until the knot has been loaded. Both loops must be clipped into something.
THE CLIMBERS BOWLINE
This knot is strong and convenient, but there are many ways to tie it incorrectly. This knot can be used to anchor a rope to a tree. (A simple figure eight follow through or friction wrap around a tree or a boulder and finished with a fool proof figure eight on a bight is preferable for institutional use.). This knot must be backed up with an overhand knot.
THE BUTTERFLY KNOT
This knot can be used to set up a three way pull on a single line. However, a figure eight on a bight is sufficiently strong for body weight loads when pulled in three directions, and more easily learned. The butterfly has some advantages of convenience: it uses less rope, it is easier to adjust and it will come out with less hassle than a weighted figure eight on a bight. For simplicities sake, use a figure eight on a bight unless your program requires tying and untying many intermittent bight knots.
Begin the butterfly with a couple of twists, making a snowman. The snowman bends down and puts his head between his legs and keeps going until he is looking at the small of his back. He pushes his head through his back and it comes out of his belly button.
THE CLOVE HITCH
This hitch can slip if tied incorrectly. A clove hitch that is tied with a fat rope will not load or sit correctly in a small carabiner. The clove hitch is often used in an attempt to create an equalized anchor with the climbing rope itself. This rarely succeeds and it is better to use a separate sling or cordelette for anchor equalization. If the rope must be used in the anchor, the double figure eight on a bight is a better alternative. Although the clove hitch can be very useful in some situations, it can be easily abused (i.e.. as the main knot in an anchor, without a figure eight on a bight backup, or as a poor self belay). Avoid the Clove Hitch in the institutional setting.
Begin with two loops as shown. Bring the loops together as shown, without flipping either one over. The motion is similar to shuffling cards, keeping both face down. Clip the clove hitch into a carabiner and tighten it down.
